ALILA UBUD

Honest review

A different Bali altogether: not a beach but a hillside above the Ayung river, rice fields and the old part of Ubud. That combination makes this place unlike anything on the island's coastline.

The slowing-down here is deliberate. There are no televisions in the rooms — a decision, not an oversight; instead of a screen there are mountain bikes for hire and unhurried rides along the rice fields. The Balinese unhurriedness of the staff is not slowness but a way of life, and within a couple of days you begin to understand it.

The infinity pool filled with mountain water is rightly considered one of the most beautiful pools in the world — the view from its edge is worth a trip in itself.

Nature lives right on the grounds: monkeys run about, and in the evening fireflies and butterflies appear.

An honest caveat: the nearest beaches are more than an hour's drive away. The right formula is a few nights here in the rainforest, with the sea saved for the second half of your route.

A resort for city dwellers who need to exhale, and for couples who want to see Bali — not just its shoreline.

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